I let this one get away from me in a road construction area and rolled it in the grass and mud. Anyway, the wife is now scared it has too much power and wants me to sell it rather than fix it. I have another project about half done so I reluctantly agreed to sell it. I still drive the car without doors/windshield and everything works great except the heater fan motor (which quit prior to the wreck) and the gas gauge works in reverse. I got used to it working in reverse and just never tried to change the polarity. I figured that if it was ever stolen it would be a nasty surprise for the thief when he ran out of gas thinking he had a full tank. (oil, temp, batt, speedometer, turn signals, horn, brake lights, interior light, dash lights, lights, cd player, etc. work great) The front end will need to be aligned and I replaced one bent wheel that will need to be balanced.
Everything is professionally built and I will list what I know below:
THIS IS A LICENSED, INSURED, TITLED, ALL STEEL, DRIVING HOTROD.
CHASSIS: The frame is original Model A and is fully boxed with 10 guage steel. The trans and engine mounts are saddle mounts and are bolted through the frame. The frontend is a Heidt's rack and pinion mustang 2 style I.F.S. kit that is professionally installed. Both front and rear wheels are Ford bolt pattern. The rearend is a Ford 8 inch from a 1963 High Performance Mercury Comet S-22. It has Posie's Panhard bar and 4 link bars with adjustable coil over shocks.
DRIVELINE: The engine is a late model Camaro small block chevy with roller cam. It has a 1966 Corvette 327c.i. intake manifold so you have an oil fill through the intake rather than through the valve cover giving you that old school look. The Ram Horn exhaust manifolds are from the same 66 Vette. Faux Oldsmobile Rocket valve covers from Speedway were added to the center bolt heads and an original 1953 Oldsmobile breather retro-fitted to accept a modern 14 inch filter completes the old school Hotrod look. Only a guy who really knows engines can tell it is not an old original. It has the serpentine belt system for the accessories. The alternator is just a couple months old and works great. The airconditioning compressor is installed and plugged at the moment. I had planned to finish adding the air this summer. A Painless 18 circuit wiring harness was used and the wires for the air are stubbed out at the compressor and under the dash. Adding the remainder of the air (evaporator, condensor, etc) should be relatively easy now. The trans is a Turbo 350 with shift kit for a nice little second gear bark and has a trans mounted Lokar shifter. The exhaust is only 2 months old as I replaced whisper quiet turbo kings with a bit louder glass packs and they sound great. Not loud at all. If you want LOUD, check out the old skool 2 inch pipe cap cutouts coming directly off the exhaust manifold under the front fenders. You can uncork your exhaust in only a couple minutes to add the rumble and a couple horsepower. Just before the wreck (which was June 1st 2008), I replaced an old Holley carb with a new Edelbrock Performer Series # 1405 Carburetor, installed a new one wire H.E.I. distributor, and installed a new Holley 'red' fuel pump that is pre-set at 7psi and does not need a fuel pressure regulator. They are awesome together.
COOLING: The car has NEVER overheated even on the hottest days. It has a Walker radiator with a thermostically controlled electric puller fan. It comes on at 195 degrees and off at 175 degrees. The radiator overflow is an old school mason jar windshield washer bottle that looks cool and works great. Did not even break in the roll over. Chrome radiator shell and gravel guard look great.
BRAKES: It has disc brakes on the front and drum on the rear. The master cylinder is mounted under the floor so the proper 2 p.s.i. and 10 p.s.i. residual pressure valves are installed. It has the Speedway adjustable Proportioning Block. This block has the brake light switch and proportioning valve built in so the amount of fittings needed is dramatically reduced. (much less chance of leaks) Lines are run from the master cylinder to the block and then to the appropriate wheel. Clean and simple. It also has the Lokar trans mounted Emergency brake.
BODY: As you can see in the pics the car sustained damage but nothing like you would expect in a roll over. In 1931 they used REAL metal. The doors took the brunt of the damage because they both came open in the roll. I believe this is what saved the fenders. I have a set of bear claw latches that go with the car that I never got around to installing. The doors have new window regulators, door anti rattle fuzzies, and new door/window handles that can be used I believe. Don't believe the doors or windshield can be saved. The doors broke the windshield welds and one door post weld. The car was a very solid Model A that was chopped 4 inches. NO FIBERGLASS ANYWHERE. The floor pan was mostly replaced as it was modified to clear the trans hump and the rearend. New floor cross members are 10 guage bent much like the originals and floor pans are 18 guage. The seat riser is original and the crossmember with the original body number that matches the title was left in place. The battery and the master cylinder have easy access panels below the seat riser. All the original metal fenders came through the wreck with not too much damage, but as you can see they will all need a little work to be slick again. All the underside of the fenders and the inside of the car was coated with Rhino truck bed liner and NOT undercoating. The inside of the car and the rumble area are separated with 3/8th inch plywood coated with Rhino liner and seam sealed so you don't get dust in the car. The roof insert and the firewall were both insulated with foil backed heat barrier insulation to keep things cool and quiet. The rumble seat may need a bit of adjusting but as you can see it still works just fine. The ribbed roof insert came from a van and as you can see it received almost no damage. The damage is mostly on the roof sides. The welds around the rear of the roof look fine.
CUSTOM TOUCHES: Check out the beautiful functional dash. The glove box and ash trays in the center of the dash work great and all the guages are easily seen. The control knobs are 1956 Ford and the dash itself is 1955 Nash Ambassadore. The dash is welded in place where the original was so the air coming through an open windshield blows on your feet just as it always did originally. The dash was reinforced with rectangle stainless steel tubing. The tilt column is Chevy with a Grant steering wheel. The steering wheel may need to be replaced as it is bent a little. The front splash apron below the radiator is all metal and is full custom. It houses hidden turn signals behind metal grills and also hides the rack and pinion nicely. You will not see this old school custom trick on any other Hotrod anywhere. The CD player is located in the center of the dash where the original radio was. The CD player works great and is an am/fm stereo CD-MP3 player. Yes, I said MP-3 player. It is compatible with CD/CD-R/CD-RW/ID3/RDS and has a headphone jack. Full range 6.5 inch speakers front and rear.
That is about all I can think of and I am sure I have forgotten something. You can imagine how much money I have invested in this great old-school Hotrod.
I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO END THIS AUCTION EARLY AS IT IS FOR SALE LOCALLY. THANKS. DELIVERY MAY BE POSSIBLE, CONTACT FOR DETAILS.
EMAIL FOR MORE PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
